As far as selling points go, “edible” ranks pretty low on the meter. It’s the answer you sarcastically give when asked whether some questionable dish of dubious origin is any good. “It’s edible.” Edible Arrangements hit on a sly angle for the traditional fruit basket, making a cantaloupe look like an orange rose, but the fact it’s edible is not the main draw for most people—it’s alluring because it’s pretty. Pretty Fruit Arrangements. Much better.
So it was a little concerning when I walked into EdiBOL One Santa Felooking for a little excitement. The Santa Fe One location is a great spot for an adventurous eater; every bowl (“HOT BOLs,” “COL BOLs”), cocktail (“delectaBOL,” “pleasuraBOL”), or REFRESHABOL (“REFRESHABOL”) seems to be packed with a wild assortment of flavors. There’s plenty here to keep your tastebuds working overtime. My tastebuds were straight up flummoxed by all of the competing flavors.
My dinner consisted of: “the BOLicious”, umami fried heirloom rice, crispy poached egg, seared greens, pickled tomatoes, kohirabi wedges, cucumber scallion relish, and homemade togarashi; “rice fritters,” crispy, chewy , tamari-glazed rice bites with a soft center; and “pretzel grilled cheese wedges,” with sharp cheddar, meunster, and hella brown mustard. Needless to say, I had a stomachache.
But it wasn’t EdiBOL’s fault. Their kitchen sink approach of having all of of the trendiest elements possible in one bowl was very tempting (I’m a “Have it all” kind of guy), and there was a part of me that really wanted the “BOL” to work. Come to think of it, it was a little suspicious that “dry aged” or “sriracha” was nowhere to be found on the menu. No matter, the main take away for me was that the simpler solution is usually the best solution. All of those gnarly ingredients kind of worked against each other in a life-or-death sort of way, and I paid for it dearly the next morning.